Episode 3: Marmax heads north to the Port of Pollenca

Hola Everyone!

After a quick trip for fresh supplies and farewell coffees with our new friends, Lorraine and Ian, we finally departed on the next leg around this amazing island of Mallorca. 

A steady breeze had us cruising nicely around the coast heading south-east. Deep blue waters in close and no rocks or reefs, allowed us to cruise directly under the ledges above. Some of the houses are built so close to the edge of huge cliffs, others clinging to the vertical. Why? Not sure. There is so much other land to build on and really, only lonely ocean to gaze upon until you get to the little ports. But all the way, hotels and big buildings, many under construction with big cranes swaying above them, large and small cute, white homes clung to the precipices. You do have to shake your head and wonder. 

Spot the two little houses here! Not sure what they are really...bachs?

We quickly realised that the rave reviews of very appealing-sounding anchorages were meant for much smaller boats than Marmax, actually, more suited to our inflatable tender.  After several attempts at motoring up to such spots, and finding that if we entered, we’d be backing out, we soon learned to look at the photos in guide books from a different perspective. It cut our snooping around by half. It is totally exciting sliding into these little rocky anchorages and not knowing what we will find; many just take your breath away. Every time we gush “this is the most beautiful anchorage in the world”, another beats it around the corner. Yep…truly amazing!

Coming into a lagoon in Puerto Petro

 Similarly, the “anchorages” they rave about, which are dotted all around the coast are, more often than not, for little fishing boats and small pleasure boats, not for us.  For all our Sandspit Yacht Club members and Kiwis following us, Great Barrier Island is 110 square miles in size; Mallorca is1400 square miles. The 4-day cruising itinerary, as suggested in all the guidebooks for circumnavigating the island is, once again, designed for speed boats, not for sailors. So the trip around is taking a little longer than we expected because we want to see all the hidden spots, big and small, enjoy the ports as much as we can, and sail whenever possible.

San Pedro

We don’t always want to be in a marina. First up, they’re costly (60-100 euros at this, the low season), but there’s very few sheltered spots around the island and even fewer places where you’re allowed to anchor.  Resorts seem to own the space out the front of their residence.  You can’t anchor where there is native sea grass and there is no fishing anywhere without a permit. (Thanks Sam for arranging Mum’s fishing permit for Mallorca) We decided it was calm enough to anchor off this long sandy beach on our first night out of Palma. No resorts in sight, another big yacht anchored, we checked to make sure we weren’t amongst the seagrass, put on our night lights and settled in for the evening. The sun had set, night was closing in and we noticed this little boat chug-chugged out from the shore towards us, No navigation lights on, going ever so slowly and quietly towards us.  It approached from behind, came right alongside, had a good nosey at where we were anchored, went right around and down the other side of us whilst, by this time we were standing in the cockpit staring at them and checking the hull with torches to make sure they were not planning an attack.  Without a word, they chugged quietly off into the distance. We were not sure what was going on, but we were gone at daybreak so the Guardia fellas could not catch up with us again…like a fox on the run!  

A swarm of yachts suddenly appeared out of the rocks...21 of them!

As we were approaching the next little inlet, Puerto Petro, a steady string of yachts were coming out of the rocks in readiness for a race. A total of 21 yachts of varying sizes, a great sight indeed!. The marina was deserted but for about 100 small fishing boats. Seems it must be compulsory to race; maybe that’s what SYC needs to do? The photos will tell the story on this glorious little port. We dropped the tender, left Les on board and had a quick exploration ashore to the quaintest little fishing port you can imagine.  A few little shops, a bustling cafe and villas dotted around the water’s edge. Glenys suggested to Janelle she take note of the place and come back here for her honeymoon. Can’t tell you how beautiful it was, take our word for it…

The stunning Puerto Petro

 Up the coast, more amazingness, and several hours later, into Porto Cristo late afternoon.  Equally stunning but busier and bigger than Puerto Petro. We backed into the marina berths here, no fingers alongside boats, so Bruce has become pretty good at berthing now…had to really. We tie up aft, then shimmy along the boat dragging up the bow lines from the sea floor which run the length of the boat.  These are often slimey with mud and barnacles, perhaps lacking use at this time of year, but always very heavy thick ropes; but we manage. Then we must erect our ‘passerrail’ the gangplank off the aft end enabling us to step ashore. We carry our fenders (all 10 of them) in our inflatable dinghy which hangs off the davits (swinging arms) off the backstern. 

Backed up in Porto Christo

Janelle and Les pumping up the new kayak

 We’d barely tied up in Porto Christo and Janelle was off to christen her new inflatable single kayak. It only took a few minutes and she was in it and gone. What fun! It’s going to be a handy little unit that one, especially for a 14 year old girl travelling so closely with family!

The restaurant esplanade of Porto Cristo

Glenys and Janelle off for an explore

A quick tidy-up and change and we were off to check out the town.  Clean, tidy and welcoming.  Plenty of lively cafes, bars and restaurants lining the waterway and lucky us! The (Spanish equivalent of ) “The Wiggles” were in town.  Loud, amusing and entertaining for young and old; they had a huge following as they paraded down the street and onto their stage. Sangrias, salmon and hamburgers topped off an eventful and amazing day.

Desperate for wifi! Pathetic really, but important to get news out to you all!

Porto Cristo

Every town is so beautiful in the evenings!

Club Nautic Porto Cristo...the Porto Cristo Yacht Club

Back out to sea, along the coast for miles and miles.  Much to see; small beach side towns full of pretty white houses, sprawling multi-storied buildings to the water’s edge, more cliff-hanging communities and sheer rock faces, walled castles  and monasteries in the mountains, caverns and caves galore, lighthouses - you name it, we saw it. A very fine mist of green could be seen floating through the hillside gullies. Once we were sailing around the top of the island with the offshore breeze, the fine mist of pollen settled on us.  A light peppering all over the boat.  

Green pollen everywhere!!

We enjoyed idyllic sea conditions, a gentle and steady breeze all day long, Marmax music and singing at the top of our lungs and much laughter; our kind of sailing.  All the way along the East Coast until we hung a left and nosied on into our next stop, the marina at San Pedro. What a curious, very Spanish place! 

San Pedro

Turns out, we were the biggest boat in town.  After tying up, we went in to check it out; looked kind of sleepy.  Not unlike those Mexican towns where you expect a ball of dried up old prairie grass to blow down the deserted street followed by a pe-owww from some lonesome gun-slinging fella’s gun.  Not a lot happening here.  Had a wander around.Some nice-looking homes, but most empty and in need of TLC.  

San Pedro homes

Others clean with determined gardeners making the most of their so-so-fertile looking back gardens.  Wafting freesias from one garden had us following our nose to a beautiful garden. So different to any other town we had come across. Came across a small supermarket and guess what?  Among other delights, they sold rum and fish sauce (just what we needed – yes Tash, I finally found some in the middle of nowhere, and I mean nowhere!!!). Loads of damaged boats in this port - all shapes and sizes.  Looked like they’d been battered against rocks and smashed beyond saving. A sorry sight indeed. Might get a bit blowy in these parts; we’re out of here!

Smashed up yachts...might be a bit scarey in a blow!

NOT US!!!

 We enjoyed an excellent, swift sail up to the Port of Pollenca, dodging tiny fishing boats all the way. 

Where to next?

Janelle enjoying the day

Janelles favourite pastime... trapezing

This is where we are now moored for two nights. Another beauty we cannot wait to explore but while we have wifi, we’ll shoot this blog off now! Check out the photo of our port. Oh my goodness…we are blessed beyond words!

The glorious Port of Pollenca...wish you were here :)

Adios for now!

From the crew of Marmax