Hola
Everyone!
After
a quick trip for fresh supplies and farewell coffees with our new friends, Lorraine
and Ian, we finally departed on the next leg around this amazing island of
Mallorca.
A steady breeze had us cruising nicely around
the coast heading south-east. Deep blue waters in close and no rocks or reefs, allowed
us to cruise directly under the ledges above. Some of the houses are built so
close to the edge of huge cliffs, others clinging to the vertical. Why? Not sure.
There is so much other land to build on and really, only lonely ocean to gaze
upon until you get to the little ports. But all the way, hotels and big
buildings, many under construction with big cranes swaying above them, large
and small cute, white homes clung to the precipices. You do have to shake your
head and wonder.
 |
| Spot the two little houses here! Not sure what they are really...bachs? |
We
quickly realised that the rave reviews of very appealing-sounding anchorages
were meant for much smaller boats than Marmax, actually, more suited to our
inflatable tender. After several
attempts at motoring up to such spots, and finding that if we entered, we’d be
backing out, we soon learned to look at the photos in guide books from a
different perspective. It cut our snooping around by half. It is totally
exciting sliding into these little rocky anchorages and not knowing what we
will find; many just take your breath away. Every time we gush “this is the
most beautiful anchorage in the world”, another beats it around the corner. Yep…truly
amazing!
 |
Coming into a lagoon in Puerto Petro
|
Similarly,
the “anchorages” they rave about, which are dotted all around the coast are,
more often than not, for little fishing boats and small pleasure boats, not for
us. For all our Sandspit Yacht Club
members and Kiwis following us, Great Barrier Island is 110 square miles in
size; Mallorca is1400 square miles. The 4-day cruising itinerary, as suggested
in all the guidebooks for circumnavigating the island is, once again, designed
for speed boats, not for sailors. So the trip around is taking a little longer
than we expected because we want to see all the hidden spots, big and small,
enjoy the ports as much as we can, and sail whenever possible.
 |
| San Pedro |
We
don’t always want to be in a marina. First up, they’re costly (60-100 euros at
this, the low season), but there’s very few sheltered spots around the island
and even fewer places where you’re allowed to anchor. Resorts seem to own the space out the front
of their residence. You can’t anchor
where there is native sea grass and there is no fishing anywhere without a
permit. (Thanks Sam for arranging Mum’s fishing permit for Mallorca) We decided
it was calm enough to anchor off this long sandy beach on our first night out
of Palma. No resorts in sight, another big yacht anchored, we checked to make
sure we weren’t amongst the seagrass, put on our night lights and settled in
for the evening. The sun had set, night was closing in and we noticed this
little boat chug-chugged out from the shore towards us, No navigation lights
on, going ever so slowly and quietly towards us. It approached from behind, came right
alongside, had a good nosey at where we were anchored, went right around and
down the other side of us whilst, by this time we were standing in the cockpit
staring at them and checking the hull with torches to make sure they were not
planning an attack. Without a word, they
chugged quietly off into the distance. We were not sure what was going on, but
we were gone at daybreak so the Guardia fellas could not catch up with us again…like
a fox on the run!
 |
| A swarm of yachts suddenly appeared out of the rocks...21 of them! |
As
we were approaching the next little inlet, Puerto Petro, a steady string of
yachts were coming out of the rocks in readiness for a race. A total of 21 yachts of varying
sizes, a great sight indeed!. The marina was deserted but for about 100 small
fishing boats. Seems it must be compulsory to race; maybe that’s what SYC needs
to do? The photos will tell the story on this glorious little port. We dropped
the tender, left Les on board and had a quick exploration ashore to the
quaintest little fishing port you can imagine.
A few little shops, a bustling cafe and villas dotted around the water’s
edge. Glenys suggested to Janelle she take note of the place and come back here
for her honeymoon. Can’t tell you how beautiful it was, take our word for it…
 |
| The stunning Puerto Petro |
Up
the coast, more amazingness, and several hours later, into Porto Cristo late
afternoon. Equally stunning but busier
and bigger than Puerto Petro. We backed into the marina berths here, no fingers
alongside boats, so Bruce has become pretty good at berthing now…had to really.
We tie up aft, then shimmy along the boat dragging up the bow lines from the
sea floor which run the length of the boat.
These are often slimey with mud and barnacles, perhaps lacking use at
this time of year, but always very heavy thick ropes; but we manage. Then we
must erect our ‘passerrail’ the gangplank off the aft end enabling us to step
ashore. We carry our fenders (all 10 of them) in our inflatable dinghy which hangs
off the davits (swinging arms) off the backstern.
 |
| Backed up in Porto Christo |
 |
| Janelle and Les pumping up the new kayak |
We’d
barely tied up in Porto Christo and Janelle was off to christen her new
inflatable single kayak. It only took a few minutes and she was in it and gone.
What fun! It’s going to be a handy little unit that one, especially for a 14
year old girl travelling so closely with family!
 |
| The restaurant esplanade of Porto Cristo |
 |
| Glenys and Janelle off for an explore |
A
quick tidy-up and change and we were off to check out the town. Clean, tidy and welcoming. Plenty of lively cafes, bars and restaurants
lining the waterway and lucky us! The (Spanish equivalent of ) “The Wiggles”
were in town. Loud, amusing and
entertaining for young and old; they had a huge following as they paraded down
the street and onto their stage. Sangrias, salmon and hamburgers topped off an
eventful and amazing day.
 |
| Desperate for wifi! Pathetic really, but important to get news out to you all! |
 |
Porto Cristo
|
 |
| Every town is so beautiful in the evenings! |
 |
| Club Nautic Porto Cristo...the Porto Cristo Yacht Club |
Back
out to sea, along the coast for miles and miles. Much to see; small beach side towns full of
pretty white houses, sprawling multi-storied buildings to the water’s edge,
more cliff-hanging communities and sheer rock faces, walled castles and monasteries in the mountains, caverns and
caves galore, lighthouses - you name it, we saw it. A very fine mist of green
could be seen floating through the hillside gullies. Once we were sailing
around the top of the island with the offshore breeze, the fine mist of pollen
settled on us. A light peppering all
over the boat.
 |
| Green pollen everywhere!! |
We enjoyed idyllic sea
conditions, a gentle and steady breeze all day long, Marmax music and singing
at the top of our lungs and much laughter; our kind of sailing. All the way along the East Coast until we
hung a left and nosied on into our next stop, the marina at San Pedro. What a
curious, very Spanish place!
 |
| San Pedro |
Turns
out, we were the biggest boat in town.
After tying up, we went in to check it out; looked kind of sleepy. Not unlike those Mexican towns where you
expect a ball of dried up old prairie grass to blow down the deserted street
followed by a pe-owww from some
lonesome gun-slinging fella’s gun. Not a
lot happening here. Had a wander around.Some
nice-looking homes, but most empty and in need of TLC.
 |
| San Pedro homes |
Others clean with determined gardeners making
the most of their so-so-fertile looking back gardens. Wafting freesias from one garden had us
following our nose to a beautiful garden. So different to any other town we had
come across. Came across a small supermarket and guess what? Among other delights, they sold rum and fish
sauce (just what we needed – yes Tash, I finally found some in the middle of nowhere,
and I mean nowhere!!!). Loads of damaged boats in this port - all shapes and
sizes. Looked like they’d been battered
against rocks and smashed beyond saving. A sorry sight indeed. Might get a bit
blowy in these parts; we’re out of here!
 |
| Smashed up yachts...might be a bit scarey in a blow! |
 |
| NOT US!!! |
We
enjoyed an excellent, swift sail up to the Port of Pollenca, dodging tiny fishing
boats all the way.
 |
| Where to next? |
 |
| Janelle enjoying the day |
 |
| Janelles favourite pastime... trapezing |
This is where we are now moored for two nights. Another
beauty we cannot wait to explore but while we have wifi, we’ll shoot this blog
off now! Check out the photo of our port. Oh my goodness…we are blessed beyond
words!
 |
| The glorious Port of Pollenca...wish you were here :) |
Adios
for now!
From the crew of Marmax
